A proton exchange membrane fuel cell (PEMFC) for portable applications is studied with thermal neutron radiography. The PEMFC operates under passive conditions, with air-breathing cathode and dead-end anode supplied with static ambient air and dry hydrogen, respectively. A columnar cathodic plate favors the mobility of water drops over the cathode surface and their elimination. Thermal neutron images show liquid water build-up during operation of the cell in vertical and horizontal position, i.e. aligned parallel and perpendicular to the gravity field, respectively. Polarization curves and impedance spectroscopy show orientation dependent cell response that can be related with the water profiles. In vertical position, the elimination of drops sliding over the cathode surface as well as natural convection favor lower water contents in the cathode and improve oxygen transport. The vertical cell can be operated for hours in ambient conditions, providing steady power densities above 100 mW cm⁻². In horizontal position, natural forces are less effective for water removal leading to 17% decrease in peak power density. The horizontal position is especially adverse if the upper electrode is the cathode, because anode flooding causes cell failure after production of a small amount of water (5 mg cm⁻²).